Face the Facts    Lucky Lips    Bulls Eye      Notes I   Diamonds      Make ups for the face Face The Facts

In general. The face lift project begins with Foundation. After that, you fix smaller color and other errors with the Concealer. In the final stages you give shape and looks to your face with Powder and Blush.

Quite often the skin is prepared for the foundation with oil. Like Argan or cheaper Olive oil.

Foundation

Foundation is a flesh-toned cosmetic applied to the face to create an even, uniform color to the complexion, and, sometimes, to change the natural skin tone. Besides the shade, the coverage and formulation are important, when choosing and using foundation.

Foundation applied to the body is generally referred to as body paint.

Shade Selection

In general the the tone of the foundation should be an exact match to the wearer's skin tone.

Sometimes desired result can be achieved with a mismatch. An excessively red complexion can be minimized by using a clear (meaning neither yellow nor pink) beige toned foundation. A sallow or dull complexion can be brightened with a rose to red to tint. Mature skin, that has lost its color and appears pale and dull can be brightened with a tint of clear pink. An olive or ashy skin can be brightened with a shot of peach. 

It is important to notice, that the appearance of the shade in the container may not accurately gauge the colour impact on the skin : a foundation that appears very yellow in the bottle may go on much less yellow, or not appear yellow at all.

Coverage

Coverage refers to the opacity of the makeup, or how much it will conceal on the skin.

Sheer is the most transparent and contains the least amount of pigment. It will not hide discolorations on the skin; however, it can minimize the contrast between the discoloration and the rest of the skin tone. Although pigment technology has evolved dramatically since 2004, the traditional protocol for sheer foundations called for pigment to compromise 8 - 13% of the finished formula. 

Light can cover unevenness and slight blotchiness, but is not opaque enough to cover freckles. It contains 13 - 18% pigment 
Medium coverage can, when set with a tinted (instead of translucent) powder, cover freckles, discolorations, blotchiness, and red marks left by pimples. It will contain 18 - 23% pigment. 

Full coverage is very opaque, and used to cover birthmarks, vitiligo, hyperpigmentation and scars. It is sometimes referred to as Corrective or Camouflage makeup. In general it will contain up to 35% pigment, though professional brands, designed for use on stage, can contain up to 50% pigment. 

Formulations containing higher levels of pigment begin to loose their ability to conceal and cover, and begin to add colour rather than coverage to skin. This should be avoided as it goes against the purpose of mineral cosmetics' core purpose. 

Formulation

The formula refers to the ingredients blended together, and how the makeup is formulated.

Oil and emollient based are the oldest type of makeup. An oil (usually mineral oil) or emollient (such as petrolatum, beeswax, or lanolin) is used as the main ingredient, with pigment added to it. The texture and application is extremely thick and dense, most closely resembling modern lip balms or lipsticks. The extremely emollient nature stays moist and will not cake, is moderately waterproof, and provides the most opaque coverage; but it can smudge, fade, and change colour (darkening or oxidizing) during wear. Since the 1970’s, synthetic wax has also been used, which is less greasy and more reliable than other emollients. Used professionally, it is sometimes referred to as Greasepaint.

Oil-based shakers are different from traditional oil-and-emollient based makeup in that they were liquid foundations developed before emulsifiers and binding agent were available, and thus separate in the bottle, like the alcohol-based formulas mentioned below. Once shaken, this is akin to applying coloured oil to the skin, with a smooth texture than can provide medium coverage with a moist finish. It was a marked improvement in application, stability and finish over the tradition oil bases, but improvements since then have rendered these nearly extinct. 

Alcohol based uses a blend of water and denatured alcohol as the base, with pigment added to it. Developed by Erno Laszlo for problematic skin, it eliminated emollient and binding agent that could clog pores, and needs to be shaken before use. Alcohol-based foundations have the most lightweight, “nothing on my face” feel, and nearly impossible to clog pores, but provide only the sheerest coverage and can be tricky to apply and blend. They work better with cotton balls or pads, instead of latex or sea sponges. 

Powder based uses powder – usually talc – as the main ingredient. Pigment is added, along emollients, skin adhesion agents and binding agents to the formula before it is pressed into pans. The difference between this type of foundation and pressed powder is that this provides more coverage (due to more pigment), and contains more skin adhesion agents (to help it stick to the skin – because pressed powder is lighter weight, it requires less). Some formulas contain wax, and can only be applied with a wet sponge. Some others contain no emollient, and can only be used dry. 

The last group contain a smaller amount of oil and can be used either way. This provide a “finished” look and can blend from sheer to nearly full coverage. But it can look too floury and dry, especially around the eyes, or on drier/mature skin. They can also flake and trickle down as they are applied and blended. 

Water Based makeup premiered after the end of World War 2. It had emulsifiers, that could successfully keep a water-and-oil blended emulsion stable being the key to their development. This creamy liquid provided medium coverage with a far more natural feel and appearance than oil, powder or emollient bases of the time, and became popular with women since then. Since then, variations on the formula have expanded the category significantly: 

Water-based cream makeup has a rich, creamy texture that can be sheer to full coverage with a moist, satiny finish. It usually comes in a jar or tube, and is much more comfortable and realistic looking on the skin than the oil or emollient-based predecessors.

Water-based Oil-Free eliminates oil altogether, but substitutes an emollient ester or fatty alcohol in the base, and adds a mattifying agent – usually clay – to dry to a flat, non-reflective (“matte”) finish. Oil-Free liquids are quite thick and heavy, and the earliest versions took time to pour out of the bottle. They provide solid medium coverage but dry quickly, and can thus set before blended is complete. The result is streaking, which is then difficult to smooth out without starting over from scratch. The usual recommendation is to divide the face into quarter sections, and to apply and blend the makeup over one section (rather than the entire face) at a time. Blending over moisturized skin with a wet sponge can also help compensate for the lack of slip. However, they will last a long time and resist smudging, even on very oily skin.

Water-based Transfer-Resistant follows the same formulation as Oil-Free, but uses a film-former or polymer instead of (or in addition to) the clay to achieve a matte finish that resists being rubbed off. Transfer-resistant (sometimes called transfer-proof) makeup will last on very oily skin, skin that perspires heavily, or in humid climates longer than any other type of foundation, though it is even more difficult to apply than oil-free makeup. The thick texture dries almost instantly, and requires a fair amount of experimentation to master. The most modern versions have made marked improvements over predecessors in that regard. 

Silicone based makeup uses a silicone – or a blend of water and silicone - as the main ingredient. The most typical silicones used are dimethicone, polysiloxane and volatile silicones such as cyclomethicone and phenyl trimethicone. The silicone provides lubrication and viscosity (what some artists refer to as “slip”) at a level equal to, or often, even better than oil, allowing a product to apply and blend over the skin smoothly and evenly. Silicones have a lighter weight and are thus more comfortable on the skin, as well as resisting filling in lines or large pores on the face. Conventional silicones stay supple and smooth, even in dry climates, whereas volatile silicones last long enough to blend over the face, then evaporate (like alcohol), leaving little to no feel behind. Because silicones lack a carbon molecule (like oil), they are less likely to oxidize or change colour during wear. One of the biggest challenges facing silicone bases is the tendency for the product to break and/or ball up on the skin, something unique to silicones and out of control of the user. Ionizing the silicones (magnetically charging the silicone positive) helps it adhere to (negatively charged) skin, though this technology is in its infancy and thus rather expensive.

Organic products

The foundations are also grouped by their raw materials. There is no name for the traditional, non-organic product group.

Mineral makeup most commonly refers to a foundation in loose powder format. The most common minerals used as the base are bismuth oxychloride, titanium dioxide or zinc oxide. Most mineral makeup sold makes a point of being talc-free. It is important for the consumer to be aware that there are no standards or guidelines for labeling this product. A "mineral makeup" may be all mineral, part mineral - or contain less than 1% mineral as part of the finished formula. Using this logic, practically all makeup could be considered mineral. Additionally, mineral makeup may or may not be organic. If it is the label must specifically mention this. 

100% Pure, Natural Mineral Cosmetics are mineral formulations, that uses 100% pure minerals and natural colour pigments.

Pure (loose) Minerals are available in the marketplace. The pure loose minerals are formulated using only natural and chemical free raw materials. They are suitable suitable for the most sensitive of skin types. And also to the people, who are interested in their own and mother Nature's health.

History

The use of cosmetics to enhance the complexion has been known since antiquity. From “face painting”, mentioned in the Old Testament (Ezekiel 23:40) to ceruse. A lethal mixture of mercury and lead popular in the 16th century. Modern foundation can trace its roots to Carl Baudin of the Leipzeiger Stalt theatre in Germany. In desiring to conceal the joint between his wig and forehead, he developed a flesh-colored paste made of zinc, ochres and lard. This formulation was so popular with other actors Baudin began producing it commercially, and, as such, gave birth to the first theatrical makeup ("greasepaint"). This would be the standard for theatrical makeup until 1914, when legendary makeup artist Max Factor created Flexible Greasepaint that was more reflective under the lighting on movie sets. Although makeup would evolve dramatically from Baudin’s invention, theatrical makeup is, to this day, not too far removed from the original blend of fats and pigment.

Pan-Cake

The first commercially available foundation was Max Factor’s Pan-Cake. Originally developed for use in film, actresses were so taken with the results that Max Factor was overwhelmed with demand for the product for their personal use. The breakthrough in his formula was the first “foundation and powder in one”; traditionally, an actor was made up with an oil/emollient based makeup, which was then set with powder to reduce the reflection and ensure it would not fade or smudge. Pan-Cake used talc – rather than oil or wax – as the base, and, applied directly to the skin with a wet sponge, it offered enough coverage (it could be layered without caking on the skin) to eliminate the need for a foundation underneath. This was considered significantly more lightweight and natural-looking on the skin than the standard method, hence the keenness of women to wear the item in public. Although foundation makeup was widely available and used within the film industry, the use of cosmetics in general was still somewhat disreputable, and no one had tried to market foundation (lipstick, blush and nail polish was popular for daily use) as an everyday item. Factor had the product patented in 1937, and, in spite of the economic turmoil of the era, Pan-Cake became one of the most successful cosmetic launches of all time. By 1940, it was estimated than 1 in 3 North American women owned and wore Pan-Cake. As of February 2009, Procter and Gamble, the brand’s current owner, confirmed the original formula Factor developed and used himself is still sold today.

Pure minerals

It was around 2009 that consumers began to identify the ingredient bismuth oxychloride and commenced search for blends that were free from the suspected irritant, proving unsuitable for sensitive skin types. This made room for organic, the pure mineral based products.

 

Concealer

A concealer or colour corrector is a type of makeup used to mask pimples, dark circles and other small blemishes visible on the skin. Concealers usually do a good job of hiding blemishes by blending the imperfection into the surrounding skin tone. 

Both concealer and foundation are typically used to make skin appear more uniform in color. These two types of cosmetics differ in that concealers tend to be more heavily pigmented. Also, foundation is usually applied to larger areas than concealer is. 

The first commercially available concealer was Max Factor's erace, launched in 1938.

Moisturizer / Moisturiser

Moisturizers prevent and treat dry skin, protect sensitive skin, improve skin tone and texture, and mask imperfections.

Moisturizers are complex mixtures of chemical agents specially designed to make the external layers of the skin (epidermis) softer and more pliable, by increasing its hydration (water content) by reducing evaporation. 

Naturally occurring skin lipids and sterols as well as artificial or natural oils, humectants, emollients, lubricants, etc. may be part of the composition of commercial skin moisturizers. They usually are available as commercial products for cosmetic and therapeutic uses, but can also be made at home using common pharmacy ingredients.

Powder ( Face powder )

Powder is a cosmetic powder applied to the face to set a foundation after application. Certain types of pigmented facial powders are meant be worn alone with no base foundation. Powder can also be reapplied throughout the day to minimize shininess caused by oily skin.

Powder comes packaged either as a compact or as loose powder. It can be applied with a sponge, brush, or powder puff. Uniform distribution over the face is achieved easier when a loose powder is applied.

Because of the wide variation among human skin tones, there is a corresponding variety of colors of face powder. There are also several types of powder. A common powder used in beauty products is talc (or baby powder), which is absorbent and provides toning to the skin.

Powder should be carefully chosen to match the skin tone in order to show the best results. If not applied properly, face powder may bring a fake and undesired look to your makeup.

There is translucent sheer powder, and there is pigmented powder. 

Powder tones the face and gives an even appearance. Besides toning the face, some powders with sunscreen can also reduce skin damage from sunlight and environmental stress. 

Blush / Rouge

Rouge , also called blush, is a cosmetic typically used by women to redden the cheeks so as to provide a more youthful appearance, and to emphasize the cheekbones.

Blush generally consists of a red-colored talcum-based powder that is applied with a brush to the cheek. 

The coloring is usually either the substance of safflor (the petals of safflower), or a solution of carmine in ammonium hydroxide and rosewater perfumed with rose oil. A cream-based variant of rouge is schnouda, a colorless mixture of Alloxan with cold cream, which also colours the skin red.

Historically, rouge was used as early as in ancient Egypt. It was also applied on the lips, the way lipstick would be used today. In some times and places, both men and women wore rouge, such as during the Regency period in England. In Britain's Victorian Age, when wearing makeup was associated with low morals, ladies resorted to pinching their cheeks (and biting their lips) to make them appear red instead.

Various substances have been used as rouge. In ancient Greece for example, crushed mulberries were favored, while red beet juice and crushed strawberries have also variously been used.

Blush effect

The pictures presents you the typical blush effect. As you can see from the left, with blush you narrow the lower part from your face.
The darker red color "moves" your lower face backwards in the viewer's eyes. Dark color moves back and bright front.

On the left blush effect is made with purple-blue. On right the blush is color yellow-red. Blue creates a cold-cool effect.
Red brings warmth. Darker brown-yellow-skin creates a natural / invisible effect to your face. Dark skin is commonly used in movies.

In traditional Asian white-face system, you use a set of white-gray blushes. In European white face, you use red blush on the cheeks.
In white face system, you spread white or whitening color to all over your face.  In traditional systems, you have pale white face.

Narrow chin is appreciated because of the aging. Age loosens skin, your cheeks start to hang, just like your breasts.
Hang widens lower face. Appreciation for young age comes from the capability to have and take care of kids.